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   GLUE TIPS
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GLUE TIPS FOR PRO GLUE VACUUM BAGGING GLUES

PRO-GLUE veneer bond tips.

Urea Formaldehyde glues have been used since 1942, and was formulated during WWII for gluing wooden PT boats together. Urea Resins have a few variations such as dry powder mixed with water, liquid resin with powdered catalyst, or two liquids that are mixed together. All these glues have different working properties and are suited for different applications and different working conditions. Urea Formaldehyde Glues generally have ridged glue lines, are waterproof, and extremely tough glues that are permanent bonds, and are relatively easy to use. The fact that they dry so hard makes them ideal for laminations, veneer work or other applications that require a rigid a tough glue bond. Large manufactures of plywood and veneered panels use Urea glues, with and without heated presses. The addition of heat can dramatically accelerate the cure time, so most production plants have hot presses that will cure a Urea glue in 5 minutes or less. Given the cost of a hot press, the formulation of Liquid urea Pro-Glue was designed to be suitable for vacuum or cold pressing as well.

We have found that this liquid resin with powdered catalyst is the best for laminations, where the ability to alter the mixtures to suit the particular lamination need is very desirerable. One of the many features of the liquid Pro-Glue is a different colored catalyst that can create almost invisible seams, when the glue color can be matched to the surrounding wood. Woods such as maple have always been a problem since squeeze through and slightly open seams become visible with most Ureas or Polyurethane or PVA glues. The white hardener is the whitest that we have found, making it ideal for lighter colored woods, and the dark is very suitable for darker woods. Mixing the two colors will yield different shades of tan, or you can darken the glue with the addition of an aniline dye that can be mixed into the liquid before the hardener is added. You will find the Pro-Glue is a little thicker than other Liquid Ureas, due to the fact that no solvents are added. The type of alcohol that is added to other Ureas is strong in odor, tends to darken the glue line, has a strong odor, and will eventually no longer be allowed in certain states due to its high level of toxicity. The solvents are usually added to enhance spreadability, penetration, and quicker mixing of the two components. We have found that mixing Pro-Glue might take a little longer, and you will occasionally need to apply a thin wet primer coat over the substrate first, and re-rollering out a second coat before clamping. I find that an inexpensive, disposable black foam paint roller or a close cropped carpet roller or a velvet roller to apply this glue work best. Even after scuff sanding, be aware that fish-eye or spotting during the rollering out of the glue is caused by traces of oil, wax, dirt or very dense material and can be usually overcome by this second application of glue. If the problem remains chronic add a little (never more than 5%) white PVA glue to enhance spreadability. The glues pot life can be extended or shortened by the amount of hardener that you add, but here is the funny thing about that, to EXTEND the pot life, ADD more hardener, or reduce the amount of liquid resin when mixing. To shorten the pot and cure time add less than the recommended ratio to achieve this. There are dried urea crystals in the hardener, which will change the catalyst to resin ratio, making it an Inverse hardener. Do not add or subtract more than 20% (by weight) hardener with the resin, or the bond may be affected. Overall, I have found the glue to work quite well, and I now use it in creating much of my veneer work in my shop.


Safety and first aid
In case of eye contact, immediately flush with water. Wash with warm soapy water in case of skin contact. Use adequate ventilation when mixing and applying glue.

Warning
This product contains formaldehyde, and acid base catalyst that may cause allergic skin reaction or eye irritation. Harmful if ingested, inhaled or is absorbed through skin.

Description
Pro-glue is a liquid urea resin that is mixed with a powdered 'inverse catalyst' hardening agent, creating a hard permanent glue bond well suited for veneering and laminations. The light and dark powder can be used separately or blended to tint the glue for approximating different shades of the wood, making seams, and any bleed-through on thin veneer invisible. Urea resin bleed through on veneer sands off easily, and will not affect finishing. Custom glue colors can be created by mixing aniline dye into the resin prior to mixing it with the powder.

Mixing ratios
The _ gall resin package is mixed with powder:
One packet (a) of powder to one cup (8 fl.oz) of liquid resin, or 10% powder to 100% liquid resin by weight.

When the shop temperature is above 75° f. You can use less resin (down to 6.5 fl.oz resin) per packet of powder to extend pot and open face time. The spread rate is about 10 to 15 square feet per cup of resin depending on the core absorption rate, temperature and the amount of glue needed to load the roller. Mix with a wisk or glue mixer for 2-3 minutes until powder is completely dissolved.

Applying the adhesive
Be sure that the core material is free of dust, burnish marks or waxy residue. It is a good idea to lightly scuff sand the core with 100 grit sandpaper to remove any impurities from the surface before applying the glue.

The mixed adhesive is applied with a brush, notched spreader, or best with a foam paint roller or a close cropped carpet roller or a velvet roller to apply. Porous surfaces will need more coats after a few minutes to resemble a 'good coat of paint' coverage.

Before gluing a large project, run a test sample to determine proper mixture ratio, core absorption, spreading technique and cure time. Be sure that the adhesive is spread with an even uniform layer and has no dry spots or fish eyes. A second application will usually overcome fish eyes, and adding up to 5% pva (white glue) into the resin mixture can aid in spreading the resin if problems persist.

Clamp and cure time
Clamping pressure needs to be applied while glue is still 'wet'. The room or wood temperatures should be at or above 70° f so proper curing will take place. Cover the project with an electric blanket (add a packing blanket on top) if temperatures drop below 70° f (21° c).

The clamping time varies, depending on the temperature of the room, glue, wood, the mix ratio, whether you are doing flat panel work, curved or bent laminations.
Severely bent laminations will require a longer clamp time to avoid joint creep or spring back.

A small amount of mixed glue placed in a ziploc bag or cup can test clamping time. When the glue has cured to the consistency of hard rubber, or, can be removed from the cup or ziploc bag in one piece, clamps can be removed and the project set aside 12 to 24 hours to fully cure before machining.

Typical clamping times are:
10 hours 65°
7 hours 70°
6 hours 75°
4 hours 85°
2 hours 95°

Troubleshooting
Applying too much or to little glue, improper ratio, surface contaminations, low temperature and inadequate clamping pressure can cause delaminations. For minor veneer bubbles or delaminations, inject polyurethane glue into delaminated area and clamp for 6 hours. This will fix most problem areas, and should not affect sanding and finishing.

Shelf life and storage

Pro-glue / veneer bond should be kept closed, stored in its original container and kept in a cool dry area. Resin stored at 70° f degrees is good for 6 months and refrigerated resin (40° f) has a potential shelf life of 3-5 years.
More than 70° f will greatly reduce shelf life. Lumpy, thick or discolored resin should not be used. Catalyst has 10year shelf life if kept dry.

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